The Lesser Known chronicles: Observing Holy Week

This observance happened last year as I was so determined to experience and see the reenactment of Christ's crucifixion in Cutud Pampanga. I was hoping to do this again this year but was unfortunate because I have a 5-day vacation with the whole family in Baguio for the Lenten days. 

Memoirs on Good Friday of 2011..

I had nothing to do on that Good Friday of 2011 so I decided to escape home and do it. Just 3 hours after I arrived home from Visita Iglesia on Holy Thursday of 2011, I woke up at 4 am to embark on a holy experience. Arrived at 6:45 am in San Fernando and met with a group of penitents. I saw how they prepared themselves for their so called "panata" or penance. It was not for the weak stomach because you get to see one person wound the back of some flagellants and blood rushed down.

Penitents whip their backs before they are wounded.

And then will be filled with blood all over their back.

From Barangay San Jose in San Fernando to the city cathedral, I joined the group and walked with them as we passed by some group of penitents. So numerous that it caused traffic. I was in charge with holding the wooden cross of a friend who is also doing his penance every year as he made his stop at every church and prayed.

If I could still remember, there were 7 penitents who carried
a cross and 8 flagellants in the group.

In this photo, I had to walk with my friend to hold his cross
every time he stopped at a church and prayed.

This is our final stop at the cathedral

A group of bloody flagellants

Then came the highlight of this Holy Week observance, I made my way together with Potch and Jay to San Pedro Cutud -- the sight of the infamous crucifixion. We were lucky that Bern was a local resident of Cutud and we had a place to eat and be refreshed. Thousands of tourists, locals and foreigners alike flocked to a small hill to witness 16 penitents get crucified. Amidst the very hot climate and the scorching sun, we made our way towards the front area to have a nicer view. And it's such a heart wrenching scene to see how the males (dressed like Roman centurions) hit that mallet against the nail and how the penitents reacted with such pain as the crucifixion took place. 

Sixteen people got crucified on that day.

The site of crucifixion

It was a brave act on my part, remembering that I was once very afraid of those people doing flagellation. Despite the crowd, exhaustion and extreme heat, the experience was so worthwhile and gratifying. It made me realize what a great sacrifice Jesus Christ did for mankind to redeem us all. I started reflecting as I sit inside the bus on my way back home. I thought of doing this again next year -- as spectator again or maybe one of the penitents, but that's an understatement for now.

TLK

The Lesser Known chronicles: A Coffee Encounter with a Pastry Chef

After a full day of outdoor activities (and half a ruler long of wound from a limestone hill), I knew I had to rest and reserve some energy for the moving up ceremony that will follow the next day. Took a shower and applied some medication to my hurting wound. After having dinner, Ms Jen Latap, the resort manager introduced to us a very unassuming, humble but a very established and successful personality, Chef Mary Ann Rivera who happens to be a regular guest of the resort.

I just had a quick conversation with her at the resort, but with that short span of time, she got me interested with her and all that her mouth has to utter. She is very soft spoken and from the way she fluently speaks, I knew that she has a very good upbringing. Mary Ann Rivera is a Pastry Chef with a complete and passionate love for baking. She honed her craft in Switzerland and traveled to some parts of Europe to try out and get to know the continent’s baking ways.

The following night gave me such excitement because she invited us over to her house for a late night coffee chat (it was past 9 in the evening). We had to take a short walk going to her house which is just a few minutes away from the resort. She bought the piece of land (in Puerto Galera) where her house is now constructed a few years back because she loved the place when she first saw it. Chef Ann was captivated by the friendliness of the people  from down south and even said that southern people are more genuine when it comes to being hospitable compared with people from the north specifically pertaining to Kapampangans. Ironically, Chef Ann is a Kapampangan herself. With both of us being a “cabalen” it was just a breeze for us to be comfortable with each other.

Pastry Chef Mary Ann Rivera loves to entertain friends over a cup of coffee which she personally prepares.

Her place was quaint and small and I caught her busy in her kitchen working with a single espresso machine as she waited for every drip. She made us a Lavazza medium roast coffee which she told is Italy’s most loved coffee (than the another popular Illy coffee). To match the hot beverage, she offered us a crisp walnut biscotti and a Siennese cookie which she personally baked. I equally loved the biscotti which went well with the coffee but it’s the cookie glazed with sugar icing with cardamom and dates that kept me wanting for more.

Lavazza is Italy's most favorite coffee according to Chef Ann and well.. to this sign board.

This Lavazza coffee with a citrus hint is a perfect pair for a crisp walnut biscotti.

The to-die-for sugar glazed Siennese cookie, baked with dates and cardamom. Looking forward to have a bite into this again.

Our conversation, which I thought turned out to be an informal and friendly chat, extended to hours as she relayed all her stories about how passionate she is with her craft. Being (still) an aspiring pastry chef that I am, I listened to all she said. One has to really love what he does to succeed in a chosen profession. And when it comes to baking, a quality product starts with quality ingredients. Chef Ann only uses ingredients she had bought in Italy. From flour, chocolates to nuts, all ingredients are imported. She even have separate refrigerators (all with different and fixed temperature) to store all her ingredients. Water for baking? Well, she uses Evian water for all her baked products. How expensive could that be? They just have to, because her "Pasticceria Mariana" clients (this is her brand name) range from airline and business executives, ambassadors just to name a few. She regards herself not as a pastry chef but a "kitchen gardener" because she keeps a small garden at home where she also gets some of the ingredients she uses. For her, a good chef also must know how to grow and cultivate good ingredients from the soil.

It was really overwhelming to have gotten to know and to have spent time (and a coffee encounter) with such successful and interesting person. And to be able to make friend with Chef Ann was really a bonus. She was on that night looking forward for our next “coffee chat” and invited us to pay a visit in her home (and kitchen) in Pasig and promised to personally bake for us. Well I won’t let that chance pass. I had hoped to meet with the “kitchen gardener” from that night on.

Tell me what you think and feel free to leave comments.

TLK

The Lesser Known travels: Another Italian feast at Luca's Cucina Italiana

My first dinner in the island of Puerto Galera was a taste of Pizzeria Ristorante Ciao Italia. As I said it on my previous post, it was more than satisfying. When it seemed like I could not have enough of pizzas and pastas, I was again on my way for another authentic Italian dinner to Luca Cucina Italiana at Talipanan, Puerto Galera.

The restaurant is quite secluded because one must take a 5 minute walk from the road going to the beach shore and finally to the restaurant situated at the foot of a hill. Luca Cucina Italiana is a popular Italian restaurant in Puerto Galera owned by a person named Luca. Even people from Manila know it and would not skip going and dining there. Same with Ciao Italia, this restaurant also uses native materials. You have to eat to really taste and feel Italy, because honestly speaking, the only thing that is truly Italian is the food and how it’s prepared (using fresh ingredients cooked slowly and with heart).

LUCA'S CUCINA ITALIANA FACADE

We ordered for Pizza Luca, the restaurant’s specialty made with fresh tomatoes, ham, salami, mushroom and onion rings. The second pizza variant is a Seafood Pizza consisting of fresh tomatoes, mozzarella, tuna, shrimp, clam and calamari. Our pasta orders were Pasta Marinara (red sauce and seafoods) and Spaghetti ala Putanesca (olive oil, garlic, bell pepper, capers, fresh tomatoes, chili and oregano).

THE MENU

THE RESTAURANT SPECIALTY, PIZZA LUCA

PASTA MARINARA AND SPAGHETTI ALA PUTANESCA

Although you can taste the characteristics of Italian food and the portion serving is really generous, I thought my taste had no distinction of the two pizzas and that the pastas fell short of the level of being perfectly ‘al dente’ in comparison with the pastas I had with Ciao Italia.

THE MENU. HAVE A SLICE OF ITALY TO YOUR PLATE

But nevertheless, I went home with a full stomach and enjoyed another authentic Italian dinner for the second night.

BIG BURP! THE LESSER KNOWN AND HIS PLATE.

The Lesser Known travels: Roughing it out on the islands of Puerto Galera (Part 2)

Next in the itinerary was a visit to the underwater cave in San Antonio Island. We were again on a 15 minute journey going to the island but were getting excited even more. When we arrived at the island, I was surprised to find out that there is a woman selling halo halo. She had a stall with a colorful umbrella and a decent number of ingredients for halo halo (there were 8).

The presence of this halo halo stall had me surprised
as I arrived at San Antonio Island.

We decided to buy the cold dessert only after we went in the underwater cave. On the way to the cave, one has to traverse and climb up a small but steep hill of sharp limestone corals. I got a memorable souvenir when I slipped and got wounded on my right leg as I made my way to the entrance of the cave. I was frightened at first because it was my first time to go inside an underwater cave. The fact that we were the only tourists who went inside at that moment added to the nervous feeling. But I would not go back and miss the experience. And finally we were inside. It was quite dark and the waters, really cool and crystal clear. We went exploring the small cave and swam a bit. It was refreshing and left me wanting to dip until I was chilling. It was definitely a memorable first.

One had to climb within this limestone hill
to get to the cave entrance.

 My second time spelunking.

The Lesser Known and Hana on the end side of the cave.

Before leaving the island, we did not let that halo halo pass us. Miss Johana bought me one and then we left. Holding the cup of halo halo, I was more focused on thinking how in the world was I able to eat halo halo in the middle of the ocean rather than eating it! And where was I able to do it first? Only in Puerto Galera. Went home more than happy.

Care for halo halo?

The Lesser Known and his halo halo.
Eating it right in the middle of the sea.

Thanks to my trusted waterproof bag. I had no worries in bringing
my camera thus gave me the chance to shoot wonderful pictures
for my roughing it out experience.

The Lesser Known travels: Roughing it out on the islands of Puerto Galera (Part 1)

I had a slightly subtle second day--just staying in the resort and musing on its tranquil surroundings. I had a chance to pump up my adrenaline in the afternoon by trying out the kayak and explore the nearby shores of Dulangan Beach. It was my first time to try this activity and I worried on the circumstance of being drifted by the waves to a farther location where I don't want myself to be in. Aided with a violet and orange colored life vest, I went forth and completely relied on it (and on my untrained paddling skills). I told myself that I must try this one. Kayaking was fun though it was surely tiring. It gave me a feeling of freedom to maneuver to wherever location I wanted to be and the chance to gaze on the lush mountains of the area.

Kayaking at Dulangan Beach, a work out for the arms.

Third day was rougher and tougher as I decided to have a closer encounter of the nearby islands and take a look on what is underneath the waters of Mindoro. I had to wait for the skies to clear out as it was more convenient to hop islands if there is full sunshine. We rode the boat at Muelle Bay and took on a 30 minute ride going to the fish sanctuary. Along the way were the equally amusing islands decorated with trees, stretches of serene shore and the glistening blue and turquoise waters which were some of the best sights I have seen since I went to Boracay Island almost a year ago.

One of the many islands with white sand shores.

Lush mountains, turquoise blue waters. Picture perfect. Paradise!

Relaxing. More fun in the Philippines.

The Lesser Known and Johana Young

The clear waters of the islands make a very good spot for snorkeling.

Snorkeling is one of the activities that I make sure to have every time I visit an island or beach destination. Seeing the scene underwater always transports me into a fantasy world full of colors and adorable creatures which kept on feeding my curious imagination about the vast seas. I had Miss Johana, a half-Finnish and half-Filipino tour coordinator as my exploring companion. We dived in the water and were treated with sights of fish, soft and hard corals and the black, spinny sea urchins! After snorkeling, we went back to the boat and made use of the bread we brought to feed the fish.

Getting ready to snorkel.

Feeding frenzy!

The waters are so clear that I do not need
an underwater camera to have this shot.

The Lesser Known travels: Exploring Puerto Galera

We had 2 hours to explore the White Beach on our first day at Puerto Galera. After walking on its shores and observing the scenes around, I met with Ms. Kaye (our tour coordinator) and had a quick chit chat with her. She suggested that we have some refreshments and looked for a place for a quick snack which later turned out to be an early dinner. We walked onto the other side of the beach and spotted PIZZERIA RISTORANTE CIAO ITALIA. The restaurant which is perched on the mountain has a tropical setting and ambience. It made use of native materials for roofing as well as with their chairs and tables.

The Lesser Known visiting Pizzeria Ristorante Ciao Italia

It was 5:30pm and we made our way to the stairs leading us to the restaurant and were greeted by their warm staff. We chose a table on the side of the restaurant because of its scenic view that overlooks the entire less than a kilometer White Beach. We ordered for a 14 inch pizza and were informed that we can choose 2 pizza variants so that we can taste 2 flavors in one pizza pan. The staff recommended to us the restaurant’s bestseller which is “White Beach” pizza (fresh tomato sauce, 4 kinds of cheese, salami and black olives). And to complete the other half of the whole, we opted for a “Pizza ala Capriciocca” (fresh tomato sauce, 4 kinds of cheese and parma ham). And to complete our meal, we also decided to order for pasta. We had “Spaghetti del Pirata” (mixed fresh sea food in fresh tomato sauce).

Ms. Kaye with the author enjoying the view
this restaurant has to offer.

I must say that Pizzeria Ristorante Ciao Italia is the restaurant with the most
spectacular view among the bevy of restaurants at White Beach.

The “White Beach” pizza is on the tangy and soury side while the “Cappriciocca” is on the salty side. But nonetheless, they possess the authenticity and flavor expected of an Italian pizza. I had the taste of the most “al dente” pasta in years! The “Spaghetti del Pirata” is firm but bitable and certainly not undercooked. I had the most indulgent time biting and chewing the smooth spaghetti noodles blended with the tomato sauce and the mixture of clam, squid and some morsel of fish that I did not bother to even know.  

And as they say, a meal would not be complete without a dessert so Ms. Kaye ordered for us their version of chocolate cake. The indulgent dessert was served to us warm and fresh from the oven. It had dark chocolate inside which is hot enough to scald my tongue. I took one forkful after another and in less than a minute, the rich cake was gone. 

The 2 variant pizza: the house specialty "White Beach Pizza"
and "Pizza ala Capriciocca"

I had 3 slices of pizza and half serving of "Spaghetti del Pirata"

The restaurant's version of chocolate cake served warm.

The Lesser Known enjoying an authentic Italian dinner.

I really had a night that delighted my gastronomic senses of taste and smell with this truly authentic Italian dinner. Before we left, I asked for a quick conversation with the owner Mr. Alberto Gomarrazzi and had a quick interview of some sort regarding the food and why he established a restaurant in this side of the country. I learned that he has a family in Italy that he visits during the lean season in Puerto Galera and that he incidentally has a son whose name is Jonathan. That was probably the reason that he’s so accommodating and sympathetic to me because he told me that he suddenly remembered his son with my presence in his restaurant. The only thing I regretted was failing not to ask how he cooked that excellent pasta we ordered.

The Lesser Known with the restaurant owner
Mr. Alberto Gomarrazzi

The Lesser Known travels: Puerto Galera (Port of Galleons)

It has been a long time since I had a chance to get away from it all. Since June of last year, I have been in an “all work and no play” situation. So when I got a chance to join on a resort immersion-tour, I did not let it pass.

The resort immersion-tour takes place at Puerto Galera, Mindoro Philippines. A destination I have never been to, which makes me a bit more excited. We left Manila at 7am and went on our way to Batangas (the link point to Mindoro). Contrary to majority of the tours going to the island, we had a stop at Berberabe Beach which is our jump off point going to Puerto Galera instead of accessing Batangas port. Berberabe Beach is used by tourists with private chartered boat arrangements. By that time, we already have our private motor boat awaiting us.

The Lesser Known at Berberabe Beach.
Intended for private boat chartered groups going to Puerto Galera.

At past 12pm, we arrived at Muelle Bay voted as one of the cleanest bays by a Vietnamese tourism organization. The bay is really clean and is populated by private yachts which I suppose are owned by foreigners who settled in the island. Arrived at Oceana Beach Resort, had a late lunch and inspected the entire property.

At Puerto Galera Tourist Information Center welcomed
by officers and the resort owner

We had a leisure time in the afternoon and went to White Beach which is the most famous and most crowded beach that Puerto Galera has. Not to mention that it is also poorly maintained. I strongly encourage the local government of Mindoro to do something about the deteriorating status of this very competitive and promising tourist destination before it’s too late. I explored the less than a kilometer stretch of sand at White Beach, observed the mix of local and foreign tourists, vendors and tattoo shops that proliferate within the area. Puerto Galera for me is less attractive than Boracay because there are no specific rules that govern the settlers and if there are any, they might not be strictly implemented.

The face of Puerto Galera White Beach full of benches and food outlets

The shore is cleaner and less populated on the right side of the beach.

Our residence for 5 days -- the serene Oceana Beach Resort
at Dulangan Beach